The Costa Rican Adventure - Volume 21 - Observations - Becoming A Digital Nomad

The Costa Rican Adventure - Volume 21 - Observations - Becoming A Digital Nomad

It has been almost two months now since I decided to sell everything I own and move to Costa Rica with just two suitcases. It was quite liberating actually. Mostly because I learned to appreciate living with next to nothing, just the necessities I guess you could say. And when I write this, I understand that not everyone can just sell everything they own, pack up and move to another country. The circumstances in my life just happened to be ideal for such a move and I felt that it was worth the risk and opportunity. So far, so good.

I have found at this point in my life, that routine and structure are the two best ingredients for keeping things simple and predictable. When they say "pura vida" here it means "simple life" and that is exactly what I am trying to maintain. We have all experienced our share of stressful years and events in our lives and it's a cathartic feeling when you can finally start to see some light of peace in your life. For me it goes back to what I talked about in some earlier blogs relating to age and stage. Every age and stage has a different set of experiences, good and bad that either allow us to find that semblance of peace in our lives, or experience more of the obstacles and lessons that are going to help us to get there in later months or years. I don't want to talk about regrets, because all of my experiences in fifty-two years have made me the person I am. But I would say that one of my most sincere hopes is that I can help people in my life and those that I meet to reach that stage of peace and happiness much sooner than I did. Life is meant to be enjoyed and it truly is a lot easier than I think we all make it out to be. Nuff said. :)

I mentioned in the title about becoming a digital nomad. A lot of people ask me what I am doing now and the simplest answer is that I am now a full-time writer. If I had to elaborate more I am now what is considered a digital nomad. It is a steadily increasing field with the effects of the pandemic being that many people are choosing not to return to their places of employment and are instead working from home or anywhere in the world for that matter. The simple definition of a digital nomad is that it is a person who is location-independent and uses technology to perform their job living a nomadic lifestyle. Essentially you need a computer and a good wifi connection and you're all set. My ending up in Costa Rica was the product of another story which you can read about in an earlier blog. I'm happy here and it seems to be a very good fit for me right now.

The last two months have been a lot of fun and full of many new experiences, routines and observations. I've fallen into a pretty regular routine, which as I mentioned before offers just the right amount of simplicity, predictability and structure. Every day I will get up early and go for a 3.5 mile (5.6 kilometer) walk into La Fortuna. I live on the edge of town, which is still considered La Fortuna, but it is about a mile or so into the heart of town. I walk seven days a week. Very proud that I haven't missed a day since I've been back. The fun part is that I am meeting a lot of new people along the way. I started out waving every morning to the regulars that I would see and pass by on my route. Anyone from restaurant cleaners, tour guide reps, store owners, restaurant cooks, street vendors, park sitters, school security guards, property security guards to the other regulars on a walk or on their way to work for the day. Slowly but surely it was fun to stop and introduce myself in my ever-growing Spanglish. People are super nice and are very understanding when it comes to the language barrier. Those who know Spanish are very helpful and patient and those who know as little English as I know Spanish will do their best to communicate through our Spanglish and hand gestures. I've made some good friends and it's nice to have the familiarity of friendly faces in the places you go. My parents were always the friendly, over the fence neighbors and that is a trait I have always loved no matter where I have lived.

I've extended those new friendships and relationships into an afternoon and evening routine too. Three days out of the week I will do a working lunch. I found a few restaurants that I really like and I will take my computer, eat lunch and write/work for another four or five hours. I've been fortunate to meet some really nice people in the restaurant business as well and they take very good care of me, as I try to do for them. Every once in a while they will pile on a handful more of papas (French fries) or slip me an extra pop (soda, Coca-Cola). The wifi is perfect for writing and internet, I can do some people watching for future characters in my screenplays and stories and I get a healthy, delicious meal. The rest of the days I have a comfortable, little desk set up in my efficiency/Airbnb and settle in there for five or six hours. Two nights a week I am the number two fan (behind his girlfriend Mary) of my very good friend, Jimmy Loop. Jimmy is an extremely talented performer and very well known in La Fortuna and the surrounding cities in Costa Rica. He plays at two open-air restaurants in La Fortuna. I bring my computer, sit in the back and write to some good Latin American music (and eat and drink a little too). And that has been my routine for the last two months. 

I also mentioned some experiences and observations that have come along in the last couple of months as well. This will be random, but interesting nonetheless (I hope). In my walks I have come across several unique animals. One was a venomous, Central American Coral Snake who slithered across the dirt road several feet (safely) in front of me. This snake is similar to the North American Coral Snake and I was taught a saying that helps you to remember the difference. Both have black, yellow and red colors, so the saying goes, 'red touches yellow - kill a fellow' and 'red touches black - safe for Jack'. Either way, I loath snakes so there is never a problem for me to keep away from them. Another animal that made me mess my pants (not actually, but could have) was an armadillo. I was walking to the local grocery store down a darker, dirt road one night and it shot out of the bushes right in front of me. I apologized emphatically (lo siento, lo siento - I'm sorry, I'm sorry) to the neighbors after screaming out, "wholly shit" about as loud as I could. The last creatures I come across daily are the little ground dragons as I like to call them. They are ground lizards, of which there are about 600 iguanid species, so I'm not exactly sure what they are. But I walk along several sidewalks that are surrounded by tall grass and they just zip right in front of you every day. A little startling, but you get used to it after a while.

Another interesting creature I have hanging around me, on my apartment and often in my apartment are the little, transparent-like geckos. They make a loud bird-like chirp to call to each other and they devour an amazing amount of mosquitos and cockroaches. And believe me, I have experienced some world-record cockroaches in just about every place I have stayed in Costa Rica, so I am a big fan of the cute, little gray lizards. Although I have to say, I wish they would be just as hungry for the sugar ants as they were for the mosquitos and cockroaches. The sugar ant is an anomaly I still have yet to conquer and figure out. They are this tiny, tiny little ants that will find the most minute, most obscure pieces of food and sugar that you could possibly imagine. A drip of juice, a crumb, a tiny morsel of food, it doesn't matter. They find it and tell every last relative on the ant ancestory.com website. Pretty amazing actually. So I've gone through a couple cans of insect repellent and I'm sure there are more to come. I guess the upside is that I have become even more meticulous about cleaning and keeping things in good order as I was before. 

One other observation that is unavoidable is the rain I have experienced here. I did live in Shelton, Washington for a year of my life and had experienced consistent rain, but that was quite a bit different. That was consistent overcast skies with a light tinkly rain. In Costa Rica (and we are in our winter and rainy season right now), it rains every day. However, what you experience is a consistent pattern much different than what I described from Washington. Here you have beautiful, mostly sunny skies for the first half of the day, then in the afternoon storm clouds will roll in and you get dumped on. And when I say dumped on...I literally mean dumped on. It is a downpour and torrential rain like nothing I have ever seen before. But honestly, it is very peaceful and therapeutic in its own way. It has a calming affect and is actually pretty neat to watch. If I had one caveat it would be that I could do without the lightning that is produced by these storms. Oh my gosh. I had a horrible storm experience with friends on a Wisconsin River, canoeing trip one year and I don't think I ever recovered from that. Needless to say I am still a little jumpy at any lightning. It's a minor detail that can obviously be overlooked from all the beauty here.

That's about it for now. I'll finish by saying that not a day goes by here that I don't remind myself of everything I am grateful for, how lucky I am to be where I am and all the good people I know and have in my life. If you came to visit and read this, I'm grateful for you too.

Until next time...stay tuned!

The Costa Rica Adventure - Volume 20 - Learning Curve

 

The Costa Rican Adventure - Volume 20 - UFO's - Dogs - And the Learning Curve

It has been a little over two weeks since I've been back in Costa Rica and I finally feel settled in. In the latest, late breaking news I will no longer be moving to Thailand in December. More deep thinking and figuring out what will be the best option for me, I decided that I am going to live and stay permanently in Costa Rica. There were many factors, but the greatest of which were an unfamiliarity with the country, the fact that Covid is in a very bad condition there right now and most importantly that I would have zero, family or friend support while in Thailand. In my travels to Costa Rica this summer, I made some very good friends and feel very comfortable with my surroundings. While there is a bit of a language barrier, which I will talk more about later, I can at least speak a fair amount of Spanish and communicate comfortably. Going to Thailand would have been extremely difficult in that respect as well. I knew that if I decided not to go to Thailand and stay in Costa Rica that it was a very welcomed fallback plan.

With that said, I have spent the last two and a half weeks getting used to what I call a learning curve. It's simply establishing routines, getting comfortable with my surroundings and seeing exactly what it is going to take for me to survive and live a functional life here. Not a dysfunctional one, lol. A regular day here is an early morning walk, about 6.5 km (about 4 miles) into downtown La Fortuna (I live on the edge of town), a quick stop at Maxi Pali (a Walmart subsidiary in Costa Rica) for food or basics, then into my tiny little office for about 6-8 hours of writing and miscellaneous freelance duties (many times I'll find a quiet place outside to write). Nighttime I visit with new friends here at the other four Airbnb units, write some more, or go take in some food and live, local music from my friend Jimmy Loop, who is an amazing musician and local talent. Like I said, just trying to establish a routine and get used to my surroundings. Since we are located relatively near the equator, you can consistently plan your day with sunlight to be from 6 am to 6 pm everyday. Very different from either the unique winter months of minimal hours of daylight or the summer months of twenty-two hours of daylight I had experienced in Alaska. 

Another funny thing about my walks now is the newness of what I am watching out for. When I was in Mountain Village, I sometimes carried a gun and/or bear spray on my walks. The common warning was to watch out for moose and bear that could be anywhere along the trails or single road up to the airport. Now my walks involve watching for Pumas, Jaguars and venomous snakes. Just like the bear and moose, you're not likely to run into a Puma or a Jaguar, but you need to be aware. And the snakes...God help me. If I came face to face with a snake, there is a really good chance I am going to shit my pants, and then run. Not a good combination, but the reality of things is, Costa Rica is a jungle climate and they are everywhere here. On a brighter note, there are some of the most beautiful birds and creatures on earth here and it is so amazing to see and listen to. And...I should mention they have some of the most beautiful flowers and plants you will ever see too. I've tried to take a picture of every new flower I see on my walks and I keep discovering new ones all the time. Flower lovers would be in heaven here.

Continuing with the appreciation of beauty, I am very lucky to be able to look at a beautiful volcano and mountain everyday on my walks and days in La Fortuna. There is the active, Arenal Volcano and right next to it is the mountain that I don't know the name of right now, better known as the Sleeping Indian. I'll have to do some research on that. If you look closely, the mountain does look like an actual sleeping man. And so I don't offend anyone by mentioning its given name, feel free to refer to the mountain as looking like an Asexual-non-gender-non-racial-ageless Mountain. Nonetheless they are both very beautiful and just have you in awe everyday looking at them. I was also very fortunate while in Mountain Village, Alaska, that everyday I could wake up and see both the Azachorok Mountain and the Yukon River. Our village was located right on the river and you could see for miles. It was so beautiful. If I had to give some additional props to Mountain Village, like Costa Rica, it has some of the most amazing and beautiful sunsets and sunrises in the world.

The people here have been really great to me, however a hurdle I will need to get over is the language barrier. I did study Spanish earlier this spring for a good two months before I came down for the summer, but I have a long way to go. For anyone who has ever spoken a second language you will understand this. I can understand a lot of what people are saying to me in Spanish (unless they talk fast, which many people do), I can read Spanish words and sentences very well, but when it comes to putting together the words I want to say to people, I have a hard time with that. I'm sorry I didn't pay more attention in your class in High School Mrs. Noble. You were a great Spanish teacher. I was thinking too much about girls and baseball at that time. I'm sorry. 

But I have to say, I am getting better everyday and the learning curve as I mentioned is improving. Fortunately I have my 73-year-old, American friend Bob, who is the owner of the property and a real hoot (very funny). He comes to stay and check on his place once in a while. Bob used to work in Alaska as a plumber and pipe fitter for many years, so we both have a lot of Alaska stories to share with each other over a few cervezas (beers). One great thing I also have going for me is the new friendship I have with Enrique, the groundskeeper of the Airbnbs where I live. Originally from Venezuela, Enrique manages the five units and we are helping each other with the sharing and teaching of our native languages. He's a great guy, we have a lot of laughs and stories to share, and he too is looking to improve his second language of English. Along with Jorge, the daily maintenance guy and carpenter of the Airbnb, we are all helping to bridge the communication gaps slowly but surely.

As I mentioned earlier I have found the people here to be extremely kind and welcoming. Not just because La Fortuna is known to be a tourist town, but because I have experienced the same kindness from the other areas I have visited as well. There is a common and often used saying down here, "pura vida", which means "simple life". Many, many people say it as a common "goodbye" or even interchange it with "thank you". Honestly, I felt the same sense of 'pura vida' back in Mountain Village. It was a simple, predicable way of life and people in both places really embrace it. I am truly hoping to do the same with my life here. 

Traveling here has also allowed me to meet a great variety of people from other countries. Amazing, unique stories and ways of life that you never knew existed in the world. I've met some really wonderful people from Germany, Switzerland, Venezuela, Nicaragua, the Netherlands, England, Brazil and Columbia to name a few. I try to avoid conversations about Covid and the pandemic and when you peel away that layer of stale conversation, you find out and learn some really interesting things about the world and cultures around us. Surprisingly there are many 'gringos' or 'expats' that live down here and what is interesting about them are the unique and often surprising stories of what drew them to Costa Rica and Central America.

One thing I do miss a little bit, I have to admit, is the closeness I had with the families and kids of Mountain Village. Honestly I couldn't walk out of my house in Mountain without hearing, "Hi Mr. Matt, hi Mr. Matt!" The same rang true at the post office or lone grocery store we had, the AC, "Hey Mr. Matt, hey Mr. Matt." It was a nice connection I had with everyone and there was a sense of peace and security knowing everyone (almost everyone) in the village. No..."Hola Senior Matt, hola Senior Matt", here. It's okay. It is definitely a wonderful memory I will always have of the kids and families in Mountain. They sure were wonderful to me.

If there are two things not lacking in La Fortuna it is dogs and bugs. Again, we are located within the tropical jungles of Central America so in essence we are sharing space with the bugs and animals. The first two weeks I got back here, there was some little, microscopic bug that got to my ankles and feet and had a feeding frenzy. Wholly shit! Talk about itching and scratching! Fortunately it is not uncommon and nothing a little bug spray and lotion couldn't help, but it was definitely Bugs 1 - Mateo 0. And dogs? Whoa! I used to think there were a lot of dogs per person in Mountain Village, but you can't throw a stick without rustling up a dog here. They are everywhere. And I have to say, while unusual, I have yet to meet an angry, aggressive or threatening dog. Each one has been docile, kept to itself or area and pretty much mind their own business. Equally unique is that I have yet to see a dog on a leash or tied up anywhere. Not one. Pretty amazing compared to what I am used to seeing and have experienced in the United States.

As far as the weather goes, between Mountain Village, Alaska and La Fortuna, Costa Rica, you could not be more opposite. Obviously they are in two very different parts of the world. One much further in the cooler northern hemisphere and the other is very near to the warm, tropical areas around the equator. You can pretty much set your clock by the weather here. We are in the rainy season right now so there is a lot of rain. A lot! You usually get the majority of the day with sunny or partly-sunny skies and by mid-afternoon, the clouds will roll in and you will get a rain shower. However, many times when it rains, we get torrential downpours. And I mean...downpours! Imagine the heaviest rainstorm you have ever witnessed in your life, and multiply that by two or three. But the neat thing is, it is one of the most peaceful and therapeutic things you can possibly experience. Minus the occasional thunder and lightning, it is really beautiful to sit and watch. Very rarely you will get a rain that lasts for several hours, but once it stops, it clears up and you end up with a beautiful and pleasant night to finish your day. It is also one of the major reasons why Costa Rica is so beautifully lush and green. Definitely something to appreciate and never take for granted while you are here.

Now I'm sure many of you are wondering about the UFO reference I made in the headline. Well as the legends and stories go, there is a very strong contingency of people who believe that there are UFOs that visit and spend time around the Arenal Volcano and the crater lake on top of the Sleeping Indian Mountain. I have heard multiple stories from people since I have been here, saw a photo someone took and heard a first hand account from a woman who saw one above the mountain. Not to stop there, very similar to the stories of the 'little people' seen in remote, Western Alaska, there are similar stories of 'the little gray people' here in Costa Rica. You might be poo-pooing what I'm telling you, but...when you hear enough different people tell the same stories, you have to give chance a little more credit. Needless to say, my eyes are always open to the skies here and you will be the second to know if I ever see one, or them.    

That's all for now. Always much more to tell. Please know that not a day goes by that I don't count my blessings and realize how lucky I am to be here. I do miss my kids, grandkids, family and friends very much, but I'm also grateful for Facetime and plentiful amounts of WhatsApp-texting. Sending hugs and warm wishes to friends, families and acquaintances back in the U.S. If you're here for the first time, thanks for reading and I hope to have you back here again soon to read of more adventures.

Until next time...stay tuned!

The Costa Rica Adventure - Volume 19 - New Beginnings

The Costa Rican Adventure - Volume 19 - New Beginnings

(Pictured: Arenal Volcano, La Fortuna, Costa Rica) Well, a new adventure begins and this time it's Costa Rica, only 5,228 miles away from my last home in Mountain Village, Alaska. I spent two months here this summer doing a lot of writing and decompressing, trying to figure out what my future would look like. Halfway through the summer I made a very difficult decision. I decided to retire from my teaching job in Mountain village and move to Thailand to pursue a freelance writing career. There are other reasons and incentives why I chose Thailand, but that life-share and blog is for another day. Regardless, it was a very difficult decision and at its heart was bittersweet. 

I really loved living in Mountain Village. It was a simple life, predictable, I had a good job that I really enjoyed, I loved the families, friends and kids, and it was a beautiful part of the world that had so many of the outdoor activities that I really enjoyed doing. But, there was a thread of restlessness that was calling me to do something I had been wanting to do for a long time. I have always had a passion for writing and creating; books, stories, screenplays, and photography. Life is short and I just felt I didn't want any more time to pass me by without giving it a fair chance. Why Costa Rica, many have asked, you could write from anywhere? Good point. But as events and life played itself out, Costa Rica became my first choice.

The story behind the story is that in January of 2021 I met someone online from Costa Rica. Things progressed well. Well enough that I rented an Airbnb five minutes from her house in Santa Ana, Costa Rica, a suburb of their largest city, San Jose. About a month prior to my leaving, I never heard from her again and I had some new decisions to make. And I'm sure there is a screenplay in there somewhere, lol. I already had the Airbnb rented and wasn't going to waste that investment, and I thought it would be a great opportunity to get away and do some writing. So I said, screw that mess, I'm going to go and have a good time. So I planned some travel throughout the country and was going to make a summer of it. I left on May 18th and returned to Wisconsin to visit with my kids and grandkids on July 17th. Following my visit in Wisconsin, I returned to Alaska and over the course of seven days, packed and sold everything I owned, down to, two large suitcases. It was quite a freeing process getting rid of so many things that I thought I needed, but didn't really need. 

I arrived back in Mountain Village knowing that I was against the clock, and needing to be out of my apartment immediately with a new teacher coming in. I have to say that despite the time crunch, I could not have asked for a better close or a better week of time than I was given in those seven days. The outpouring of kindness, love and support of the village was more than I could have ever asked for. Fortunately I thought ahead and began listing my things for sale while I as still in Wisconsin, before coming back to Mountain. The saying is funny, but couldn't be more true, "one man's junk is another man's treasure". Believe it or not, I sold everything I owned from a four-wheeler, to pots and pans, and even a toilet paper, holder-stand, to which I threw in three, soft, supple rolls of toilet paper. I had some wonderful goodbyes and conversations and the kindness of everyone was beyond words. I get choked up just reflecting on those relationships and friendships that I was truly fortunate to be a part of. I tried to stop and visit with as many people as I could, but needing to sell, pack up and clean took much of my time.    

I will miss Mountain very much. I had a wonderful two years there and I can honestly say they were two of the best years of my life and two of the best years of teaching I have ever had. I will forever be grateful to the families for their kindness and welcoming me into their homes and doing so many nice things for me in the two years that I was there. I also made some wonderful friendships, I had some great experiences in the outdoors and it was definitely a place I felt good calling home. Ironically, I spent several months planning to build a fish camp down the Yukon River on a quiet slough called Patsy's. I designed, planned and budgeted with every intention of making that my summer home for years to come. A humble canvas tent, built on a platform, right next to the slough with one of the most beautiful views in the world. It wasn't to be.

If I had a regret about Costa Rica, it would be that I didn't write about the adventure and time there. There were so many interesting things and people I did and met along the way. I saved two lives, found mysterious oranges with hidden notes in the ocean, had a long car ride with a drug, dealing taxi driver who is now my protector and friend for life, had great talks with multiple people from around the world and so much more. But...I have spent way too much of my life worrying about what other people think and I let that influence me again. I was worried what my friends and families in Mountain would think if I was taking a trip to an exotic country for two months. It was because of that I decided not to write about my time here so I wasn't giving the appearance of flaunting my money or have anyone see me in a light that I humbly didn't want to project. I just felt some humility went a long way and it was better just to enjoy the experience and keep it to myself. The regret lies in the simple fact that I wish I had shared what was a wonderful and amazing two months that people might have enjoyed hearing and learning about. The upside is that I did journal the entire trip and those experiences can still be written about. But...they will have to wait for another day. Life has a funny way of calling us in different directions and I think I was born with a nomadic gene in my blood. It would be a different fork in the road that would lead me elsewhere. 

So I decided that elsewhere would be to return to Costa Rica, which I am now calling home. I will be working hard to make La Fortuna, Costa Rica my new home and place of inspirational writing. It will be a fun ride and adventure, and I am excited to share it with you.

That's all for now. Until next time...stay tuned!

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 18 - End of Another Chapter - Bring On Summer

 

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 18 - End of Another Chapter - Bring On Summer

It's been a while since I've written and as always there is so much that gets packed in to a short amount of time. I wish I could say that 2020 didn't follow me into 2021, but it did. We had finally returned to school in March after a very long 'code red' in our village and I was so excited to see my students and to be back in the classroom with them again. We went back to a 'yellow schedule' and were able to have half days with a morning and afternoon group. It was a lot of fun again and we were even hoping to finish the year on a 'green schedule' and be back to normal, if you could call it that with the whole class together. Then...wham! Out of nowhere we got hit with 21 cases in one week. Nine of which were students and sadly we had to close down the school again, returning to remote learning.

The good news is, tests were given and we returned to a 'yellow schedule' two weeks later. But...as fortune would have it, three days after there was a water main break in the middle of our school parking lot and the water had to be shut off. There was no water at school and for a multitude of houses, which included teacher housing. School closed Wednesday again and after four and a half days, we finally had running water by Sunday afternoon. Last year we were without water for almost a week. Fortunately I planned ahead and filled up three of my large totes with water, and was set for the four days. I can't tell you how many times I instinctively went to turn on the water, forgetting that it was shut off. Creature of habit I guess.

My puppy Yukon continues to grow bigger and develop his personality. I learned a valuable lesson not to put my sweatshirt in his kennel when I was away, as he proceeded to eat the entire middle of the sweatshirt. It used to say 'Wisconsin' in large, bold letters and that is no more. Despite his unusual snacking habits, he is a very good dog. There haven't been any accidents in the house and he is a great companion and very loving. We have been spending many hang-outs on the small front porch that faces the Yukon River. We get a lot of sun there from the afternoon on. I sit in a comfortable chair and Yukon sniffs, explores and rests on the straw-like grass down below. He'll saunter up every once in a while to say hi or see if I have a treat for him. It is always a well-enjoyed break for some fresh air.

When I said bring on the summer, it could not be more genuinely spoken. Obviously you get used to the winters here with the cold and more than usual snow, but Mother Nature decided to let us have it over the course of two months. March and April were unbelievable as I counted seven snowstorms over the course of one and a half months. I had to laugh and laugh as I see posts from friends and family back in the Lower-48, enjoying warm temperature and activities, while I am shoveling the six-foot drifts blocking my back door to get out. Don't get me wrong, I love snow, I really do. But we got a lot of it in a very short amount of time. At one point, I could walk on the natural pile of snow outside my front window and my head would be above the edge of the roof. It was pretty surreal I have to say. One of the winters I will remember forever.

As far as my health goes, I can happily and humbly say that I am in as good of a place as I have been in two years. I love my moose meat and salmon, but I'll be the first to admit that the pandemic took its toll on my eating habits. I didn't miss any of the ten meals I was eating everyday and my body took on the shape of a Beluga Whale. I was a tub-of-goo again and I could really feel the effects it was having on my health and body. Not to mention the four-plus cans of Pepsi I was consuming every day. Soda or pop as we like to call it here, has always been my greatest weakness and nemesis. I think it's the carbonation I am addicted to more so than the sugars or caffeine. I've had countless offers of advice to cut back, but I'm a cold-turkey type of person and have to stop completely. So on March 1st, I flipped the switch and quit again. In addition I decided to revamp my diet, cutting back on a few meals, late night eating and mixed in some intermittent fasting. I'm proud to say I've dropped 35 pounds and feel as good as I've felt in a long, long time. One addition and help are my daily walks to our airport, which are about a 3-mile roundtrip. The gravel road is a nice walk and you always see a familiar face or two driving by on a four-wheeler. And it doesn't hurt either that the views are amazing.

Last summer I decided to make Mountain Village my permanent home and stayed here for the summer. It was honestly one of the best summers of my life, which was evident in some of my previous blogs. Over the holidays I had the chance to visit my two kids and grandkids and had a wonderful time seeing them again. While I would love to repeat my amazing summer adventures on the river and in Mountain, I decided to make a couple stops outside of Mountain this year. I decided to return to Wisconsin in July to spend more time with my kids, grandkids and family, which I am really looking forward to again. However, I wanted to make a return to my love of writing and decided to take a detour prior to Wisconsin. Those of my friends and family who know me well, know that I can be very spontaneous in my decision making. So I decided to rent a tiny apartment in Costa Rica and will be traveling there to visit and write for two months. I am torn by the fact that I was really looking forward to making a regular fish camp down river on the Yukon this summer, but I have been very inspired to work on a couple writing projects and have always wanted to see Costa Rica. And so it is.

Speaking of writing, I just finished a manuscript for a book that I had always wanted to write and I was finally inspired to get it down on paper, or computer, lol. So at the same time I committed to quitting the pop, I set out the goal to write a few chapters every day. And I did! A month and half later I had a finished manuscript and...just (literally), got the news on Sunday night from Page Publishing, a company in Pennsylvania that is going to publish it. They are a very reputable company and I am very excited. It's called Moments and in a nutshell, it is about relationships. It has small, one-page chapters on all the possible moments I could think of, that couples share in a relationship, and the importance of those moments to have a healthy relationship. Each opposing page has two random compliments that a couple might share with one another. It's deep, emotional and I hope will inspire some good conversation for all couples, regardless of age or interest. I just miss writing and film so much and wanted to get back to one of the things I have always loved to do in my free time. I'll be excited to share good news in the months to come.

The days are growing longer here and it's exciting to see the bright early mornings and late, sunny nights again. We are starting to see the morning light about 5:30 am and it stays light to about 12:30 now. Hard for some of my Lower-48 friends and family to understand, but soon it will be light for almost the entire day. It is one of the coolest things I have ever experienced. It's neat to see the village come alive later at night and to be able to visit with everyone again. I know many of my friends and families here in Mountain are just as ready to get on the river and start their summer adventures. The ice just broke on the Yukon River today, which is also a huge event for everyone here in Mountain.

There is always so much to share and I could cover many more topics, but that is the (moose) meat of my life right now. I am excited to see what this summer holds in store for me and when those chapters are written, you will be the second to know. :)

That's all for now. Until next time...stay tuned!

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 17 - Reconnection - Residency - Fish Camp

 The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 17 - Reconnection - Residency - Fish Camp

 

Welcome 2021! Nice to have you here. Be nice! It's been very unusual here, I have to say and not exactly how I wanted to start the new year. Nothing bad, just not the 'normal' I had hoped we would return to here in Mountain Village. The Covid situation seems to take on a different identity here in Mountain compared to what I noticed when I was in the Lower-48 to visit my kids and family in December. Life in the Lower-48 is much more spread out and obviously much more populated and busy in general. Here we are close-knit, life is much more laid back and comfortably-simple in many, many ways. I'll be completely honest, that's how I like it, simple and predictable. The downside is that the close quarters of our village and others around us has lead to more and more positive cases of Covid, leading to longer closures of our school, village and community in general. 

That's where the 'reconnection' comes from and is something that I have longed for, for months now. Reconnection in the village with my students, my co-workers, friends and the friendly faces of the village that I was accustomed to seeing daily during the summer and early fall. Connection with my students and their families are limited to phone conversations and texts, and I miss them so, so much. Even to have had them on what we called a 'Yellow' schedule was wonderful, because I could at least see them for half a day and you got the best of what teaching is really all about. Happy faces, laughter, fun learning and a genuine connection with the kids. Gosh, I miss it so much. Unfortunately, the cases of Covid have continued to remain high in our village leaving us under a 'Red' schedule, keeping students at home and learning from afar. Code red also means isolation around the village with necessities only, like the post office and one allotted trip per family, per day to the local AC Grocery store. I treasure those trips when I can take them, because it allows me to reconnect with those friends and villagers who I used to see all the time, but now rarely see. Last year at this time, we had full days of school, high school basketball, hosting village-to-village basketball tournaments, movie nights, dances for the middle and high school kids, bingo, fiddlings (village music and dances), native dances, potlucks and so much more. That's all gone right now. But I have to laugh at times, because it took me a long time to get to know everyone, recognize faces and now...with only a set of eyes to see, it takes me right back to the, "Oh shoot! Who is that again?!" Lucky for me, I've gotten pretty good at voice recognition, identifying snow clothes, and am able to recognize people much more quickly. It's not always that way, but just feels so good to get out and see my friends and neighbors (everyone) again.

January 1st was a big day for me this year too, because it meant I was officially a 'resident' as it related to the first, full calendar year I had been here. My one year anniversary was actually August 1st of 2020, but the full calendar year allowed me some new benefits that will be greatly appreciated. Alaska has the PFD, the Permanent Fund Dividend, which is a dividend paid to Alaskan residents that have lived within the state for a full calendar year and intend to remain an Alaskan resident indefinitely. The annual payment allows for Alaskans to share in a portion of the state minerals revenue in the form of a dividend to benefit current and future generations. It's a nice perk to living here. Any additional monies are always appreciated and as my father used to tell me, whether I found a penny or got any amount of money no matter how small, "Matthew, it beats a poke in the eye with a sharp stick." I'm laughing out loud. Corny saying, but I knew exactly what my dad was trying to teach me. When I have conversations with my own son and he tells me about some money he made, before I can even get out, "Well hey, it beats...", he says, "I know Dad, it beats a poke in the eye with a sharp stick." We laugh hard!

In the house-restricted times that have taken over, aside from some fresh air, four-wheeler rides, I have tried to create something to look forward to in the upcoming spring and 'breaking of the river's ice'. That's where the fish camp comes into play. Almost every family in Mountain has a fish camp or has shared in the fish camp lifestyle. Whether passed down through generations, purchased or gifted, the fish camps are a regular part of the village lifestyle from May until the end of October. The river dictates how long that tradition goes into October as the ice flow from northern Alaska makes its way to the village down the Yukon and things shut down on the river for boating. Families grow closer, the culture of the Yupik people gets passed on and memories are made through fishing and traditions in those spring, summer and fall months. Last year I was very fortunate to visit a few fish camps of friends and a variety of villagers and I was 'hooked'. Bad pun, but it's true. I grew up in the summers on a small, humble lake in northern Wisconsin (Tug Lake, Irma, WI) on a 1 1/2 acre lot that my parents saved for and we camped and enjoyed the lake for our springs, summers and falls. After my parents both passed away in 2012, we sadly sold their lot and that ended 37 years of camping, family traditions and memories that I will treasure forever. When I had a chance to visit the fish camps here in Alaska, I fell in love with camping all over again. I decided last fall that I would start searching out a place where I might humbly pop up a tent and have a place to retreat to. Not to get away from Mountain, because if you read back on previous blogs, last summer 'in Mountain' was one of the most fun and peaceful summers I have ever had in my life. But...having a place of my own to camp, hang out, think about life, wrestle grizzly bears (just kidding), and experience water and nature again like I did with my parents, would be amazing. So much of my down time indoors has been researching, planning and getting excited about a summer of camping and new adventures. I have seen and experienced some of the most beautiful and peaceful nature that the Yukon River and Alaska could possible offer and I really want to continue to appreciate and experience more of that. Something to someday share with my kids and grandkids in some capacity. More on that part of the adventure to come. Last year the ice broke on the river in mid-May, so after that happens this year, and when it's safe from logs and branches flowing down the river...I'll launch my boat and see where a good place to camp calls to me.

Besides that, it's pretty peaceful here in Mountain right now. We have our snowy days, we have our bitter-cold, stay-in days and plenty of nice days to get out and sniff in some fresh, Alaskan winter. Manaqing for Pike will start soon and everyone is looking forward to that too. I still have yet to catch my first fish through the ice and I'm hoping to break that streak this year. Fingers crossed. I'm sure February and March will hold some new and exciting adventures and you will be the second to know about them.

That's all for now. Until next time...stay tuned!

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 16 - A Good Year

 The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 16 - A Good Year

If you talk to most people and ask them what they thought about 2020, it's likely they are going to give you a list of a lot of bad and unfortunate things that happened this past year. The Corona Virus for sure and probably quite a few other events. While the Covid-19 situation significantly affected our village, our school and the day-to-day life in our village, I have to say personally that it was a good year for me. It really was. I'm trying to take away as many positives as I can. Unbeknownst to most people other than my family, the first three months of the year may have been some of the most difficult and emotionally trying times in my life, in over 30 years. Reflecting on that time won't bring any value to my story by sharing it, but I can say it changed my life for the better and gave me clarity at age 51, that I will forever be grateful for.

April brought the start of some really wonderful things in my life and that was the start of what made my 2020 so special. I made a big decision in April, when I decided to make Mountain Village my home permanently. I knew it was going to be a sacrifice to family with my son, daughter and grandchildren back in Wisconsin, but I really felt that Mountain was a good fit for me and where I wanted to be for years to come. I was making new and amazing friendships with more and more people in the village and I felt like people were really going out of their way to make me feel welcome, and that putting in roots was the right decision. I also wanted people to know I wasn't just there for myself, but that I wanted to help the community in any way that I could and really make an impact on the people of the village.

I couldn't have been happier about my decision as it led to so many wonderful experiences and friendships that I will remember forever. Things that I realize many people may never have the chance to experience. Reflecting back, I will always remember...my new friendships, buying my first boat and motor, camping at the Bering Sea, whale watching, moose spotting and catching my first moose, boat rides, camping on the Yukon sandbars, taking long rides and exploring on my Honda (four-wheeler), collecting photography on some of the most beautiful sunsets and sunrises in the world, helping and sharing in the heartwarming traditions of family funerals, setting net and catching King Salmon and Chum, shore manaqing for Whitefish, campfires on the edge of the village, seeing my first Grizzly Bear live and up close, being invited to a variety of family, fish camps, having 1/2-hour visits on Hondas during nighttime rides, experiencing 22 hours of light into the wee-hours of the night, rod and reel fishing for Salmon and Pike at Clearwater, catching as many as 20-plus fish multiple times, helping the village build safer steps to our spring water, doing some fun videos of my adventures on the mountain and river, and most importantly, seeing my friendships and relationships with the families of the village grow.

I have to say that the Covid-19 situation was bittersweet as it related to my teaching. For the first time in 22-years of teaching, I had less contact with my students over the course of two school years that I ever have before. We closed down school in mid-March in the newness and fears that the Corona Virus was bringing for the first time. In the fall, I had limited half-days with my students until we had to go to a code red and close school for a second time. It was disheartening. I have been very lucky in my first two years in Mountain Village to get amazing kids and classes. So while it was very sad to have significantly less time with the kids than I ever had, the 'sweet' part of my experience was how I was able to get very close to them and their families. As we went to mail-home packets, a big part of my responsibility was to maintain contact and home support of my students. This meant bi-weekly calls and texts to students and parents to check on their well-being and homework progress, offering as much support and help as I could. It was the first time in 22 years of teaching that I got very close with not only the students, but with their parents and families as well. In some cases, making some very good friends. I can only remain hopeful and optimistic as the new year comes, that I will be able to have my students return to the classroom and we can be in school the way it was intended to be. The way it should be. I'm excited to share about those experiences and changes as time goes on.

The end of the year brought an opportunity for me to head back to Wisconsin to see my son and daughter, two new grandchildren of four now, two of my brothers and sister-in-laws and a few friends for the first time in over a year and a half.  I flew on 11 different planes in the round trip. Six to get there and five to get back. Wow! The time, while quick and short was as wonderful as could be and I was so happy that opportunity came to me. There is never enough time to see everyone I wanted to and sadly the Covid-19 situation hindered some of those reunions as well. It just made me appreciate and value family and friendships that much more in this short life we're given.

Since I'm in Alaska, I'm not quite to the new year yet, but much of the lower-48 already is. That gives me a little more time to reflect on this last year and think about what I want for the new year. I've traditionally done the new year goals and resolutions, with some some success and some I can't remember to save my life, lol. I guess it just gives me something to look forward to and I like setting goals for myself. So what might you see from me in 2021? Well...with all the optimism I can muster, I'd probably look forward to the following things; enjoying and getting excited about being back in the classroom with my students, spending an exciting year-two in Mountain as my 'home', enjoying the growth and stages of my new puppy Yukon and all the adventures we'll have together, finding a place down river that I can consistently camp and retreat to, writing more snail-mail letters to my kids and grandkids, getting my health and weight in a better place (again, lol), taking more pictures of the Lower Yukon, building and respecting the friendships I have in Mountain, maintaining and respecting the friendships I have in the lower-48, and keeping in touch with my kids and family as much as humanly possible. There might be more, but you'll be the second to know after I figure it out. Hoping for happier days in 2021 for everyone.

I wish all of my family and friends in Mountain and the lower-48 a very Happy New Year. If I'm not always able to tell you, you're very special to me and I'm a better person for having met you and having you in my life.  

That's all for now. Until next time...stay tuned!

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 15 - Feeling Alaskan

 The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 15 - Feeling Alaskan

I don't know how it happens sometimes, but I will take a quick look at the calendar and realize that over a month or two has gone by and I can't even grasp where that time went. I'm starting to feel that despite how subtly and quickly the days pass, I'm okay with it. I'm trying to put less and less stock into time and being a slave to it and honestly, it's really helped the days to be so much less stressful and obligatory. I have my responsibilities with school and teaching, but spontaneity has become welcomed company. I try hard not to make plans and just let the phone and the day run its course.

Fall obviously came and went and with it has come some new opportunities for me. Not that they're so much new, as they were renewed opportunities that I just wasn't ready for a year ago. I've had the chance to go bird hunting (goose, duck, swan and other) and that was a lot of fun. First time I ever shot a shotgun in my life. We never had guns growing up as my mom and dad never really advocated for hunting. Despite having a humble, summer cottage in northern Wisconsin, hunting was never an activity for my brothers and I. There was never a gun in our house in my eighteen years living there and now I own two and it's a staple possession here in the village. The guys 'and' women here could tell you everything you would want to know or learn about firearms and hunting tips. Stories and curiosities about hunting and catching are regular conversation.

Having been here a year now, I'm was in a position to catch my first moose. Culturally and traditionally you don't talk about going out to look for moose, hunt them or make plans to go out moose hunting. You 'go for a ride' and if nature offers opportunities, you take them gratefully. The results are obvious. You don't really have an appreciation for how magnificent an animal the moose really is until you have a chance to see them up close swimming in the water or standing on shore from a boat. Even more humbling is the unbelievable size they garner when you have to throw a 100-200 pound (or more) moose leg or body part over your shoulder and carry or drag it 25 yards or more through thick brush, sometimes 1-2 feet of water or other obstacles. Now I'm sure some of my more seasoned hunting friends would give me a hard time and say, "Well, just drop it on the beach or shore next time and you won't have to work so hard". I know, I know. Definitely easier said than done. Not to mention also the humbling experience when a moose leg or rack of ribs is taking up your entire kitchen table to be cut and processed. It's surreal, it truly is. And it's an absolutely delicious meat. People in the village have been very fortunate this fall and there has been plenty of meat to be passed around for the elders, those in need and those wanting some fresh moose to fill winter freezers. Traditionally when you catch your first moose, you give the entire animal away, and I did. Respectfully you are able to keep the antlers and I was very proud to hang onto the 45-inch rack that my bull carried around.

And if I had to take a moment to touch on the actual moose itself, holy cow! Again, you cannot begin to appreciate the sheer size and strength these creatures possess. They are huge from afar, but when you get up next to them after catching, they are like standing next to a horse. Funny I should mention that too, because a friend here posted a picture on Facebook of a guy holding up the head of a horse laying on the ground and the caption said, "My first moose". My friend eluded to the fact that, that would be me, holding up the horse I mistakenly caught, instead of a real moose. I did good though, I caught the right one, lol. When you dress out the moose (cut up) in the woods, you simply cannot believe the size of the muscles and skeletal structure that makes up a moose. They have these amazingly strong legs and necks. If you had a chance to see how thick some of the trees and brush are and to know that these animals are carrying incredible weight in their antlers, moving in and out of these trees is truly mind-blowing. And I have seen some bulls run through the forest with the speed of a horse and again, they are carrying these tremendous antlers in and out of the brush with little to no effort. Equally impressive are their leg muscles to where I've seen a moose jump up a steep, 15-foot embankment with little to no effort after jumping out of the water. I could go on and on about different parts of their body structure, but I will simply say it is a truly, amazing animal to experience.

The fall also gave me an opportunity to explore more of the Yukon, down river. That was so much fun for me too, because it took me back to the days of being 'up north' in Northern Wisconsin. That's what we called it growing up. My parents had a small, humble lot that we first started camping on. Over time they slowly built a basement that eventually became our cottage and their retirement home. I treasured those days and weeks we spent at the cottage and miss them terribly. What we called our cottage, here they call 'fish camps' and most people have one to go to. If you get a chance to go down river, what you find is 'nothing' and that is what I absolutely love. When I say nothing, I simply mean it's just you and nature and nothing else. The peace of the woods, the water and the animals you're lucky to see. I found a quiet place I liked going to in one of the sloughs down river and spent a lot of time there. A slough is a tributary of the river that flows into the larger Yukon. They are usually smaller, shallower and so, so peaceful. One night I floated for 45 minutes and there was not an animal or a bird in sight and there was no sound anywhere. I couldn't even hear the water. Lol, maybe because I'm starting to go deaf, but it was one of the most peaceful experiences I have ever had. I dozed off a couple times as the water of the slough just carried me along in silence. My hope next summer is to find a place to put up a tent on a more permanent basis and start having some of my own getaways. Certainly something peaceful to look forward to.

The last few weeks have also offered a new set of experiences that I didn't have last year. I bought my first little boat this summer and had to have that brought up from the river. Similar to getting a boat out of the water back in Wisconsin, only here, you could just pull the boat out of the water and leave it on the beach above the ice and flow of the river. Some people do choose to do that, but I wanted to have it a little closer to my place to fix up in the spring. I had three friends who threw mine on their trailer and helped me to get it up to my apartment. I cannot say enough how good the people are here for helping one another out. Trading favors is what it turns out to be and it is just a way of life here. That's one of the things I absolutely love about the people here. As I was saying, there were some new experiences that were pretty cool. As neat as it was to talk about and see the 'breaking of the ice' in the spring, where people anxiously anticipate the first breaking of the ice, the same enthusiasm is garnered for the 'coming of the ice'. Villagers talk about word they hear from upriver, in the interior where the river first starts to freeze over. People talk about how the ice is making its way down river from village to village and predictions are made as to when it will reach Mountain. Then it comes. You look down and go down to the river to see the huge masses of ice that start to flow past our village. Then as the weather grows more consistently colder, you can see the river 'slow down' and the ice begins to grow solid and the river comes to a stop. Amazingly, you still have those few brave (or goofy, lol) souls who keep their boats in the water to gather logs or check for the coming of the eels. They have been known to find themselves stuck behind ice-islands, requiring a rescue, but for the most part make for some good stories and fun adventures.

As I mentioned above the coming of the eels is another event I hadn't experienced before. There is a huge migration of eels that makes its way up river and people love to use dip nets to catch on the edge of the ice. Some days they bring in hundreds and it's an incredible site. From what I'm told they are a very rich tasting creature, and much loved here as a meal in the village. You also see a big migration of the Grayline. It is a fish in the salmon family and we usually see them in late fall and throughout the winter. I had a chance to ice-fish for some two weeks ago with a group of people and it was a lot of fun. It's a 30-minute ride on four-wheelers through the tundra and over some smaller streams and sloughs to the 'hot spot'. I didn't catch that day, but my friends did and it was a blast. I tell people and swear to it, that I could be on the water or ice, lol for hours, not catch anything and still be just as content, having a good time. The same love of fishing I had back in Wisconsin since I was a kid growing up. If the fish weren't biting, I was just happy to be on the water, hanging out with my dad or brothers.

I guess I have to at least speak a little to the new normal we're going through here in the village. Obviously, the Covid-19 Pandemic has changed our world and it is no different here in Mountain. We unfortunately don't have the medical facilities we would have in a bigger city. We have our clinic, but no hospital. The nearest hospital is an hour away by plane or helicopter and it is unlikely that they would be flying us out unless it is an emergency. So the concern is a little higher and taken more seriously here in the village. Especially since we have a large number of elders in the community who would really struggle if they were to contract the virus. As of the weekend, we now have 7 confirmed cases in the village and they are expecting more. The village is on lockdown and there is a 5 pm curfew where you need to be in your home for the safety of everyone. School also sadly has been closed and we are limited to passing out learning packets and calling students twice a week to make sure they are doing well and if they need help. It saddens me greatly. I would much rather be in my classroom with my students learning, laughing and having fun, the way it was meant to be. Simply put, this new normal sucks and I miss the way of old. I truly hope we can get back to where things are more normal, like they used to be.

My final addition to the winter was a new member to my household. Yukon, a half-husky, half-labrador who is my new buddy and companion. I had been thinking about it for a long time, but just wasn't ready to make the jump. Obviously, it's a big responsibility and I thought, "Alright...let's do this!" So I did. I was stuck on what to name him and first posted and introduced him as my new puppy, 'no name'. It was so much fun then to see the flood of name suggestions from people and Yukon was coincidentally the most recommended. When I did some playing on the floor, he responded time after time to Yukon...so Yukon it was and it has been a perfect fit. He has been amazing and I look forward to having a camping and boat buddy next summer when I start exploring the river in the summer again. Can't honestly say that three hour blocks of sleep are my favorite thing right now, but as soon as Yukon and I are fully potty trained, lol, we'll be good to go on more sleep. Looking forward to sharing of his adventures much more as well.

That's all for now. Until next time...stay tuned!

 

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 14 - One Year and Counting

                             

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 14 - One Year and Counting

A little more than a month has gone by and yet again, so much has been packed into what feels like such a short amount of time. This has honestly been one of the best summers of my life. I was just talking to my older brother Tom today and was sharing some of my recent activities and adventures. He told me he could not remember for a very long time, hearing me as upbeat, content and sounding like I was definitely in the right place, as I shared stories with him. Tom said, "Sounds like it's time to write that book." Maybe he's right. I've been very fortunate to have a lot of wonderful experiences in the last twenty years of my life, and have spent so many wonderful and special times with family, friends and in wonderful relationships. But I have to say that this is the first time in many, many years that I finally feel like the round peg that goes into the round hole. For those of you reading and scoring at home, the round hole means here in Mountain Village, Alaska.

I don't know if I mentioned it in a previous blog, but I had a very good friend share an interesting thought with me last year. He said that he believed when we meet and interact with anyone in our lives, we need to think about their 'age and stage'. Thinking to ourselves: How old are they? What stage are they at in their life right now? What experiences have shaped their attitudes, behaviors and actions? How are their age and stage different from mine? I thought it was a really great perspective and when I gave it some serious thought, so many characteristics of people I do and have had interactions with, have become much more clear and now make much more sense. Simply put, I found a good fit for what is best for the age and stage in my life right now. And when I look back on friendships and relationships from my past, I have a lot more empathy and understanding that many of those people were at a much different age and/or stage in their lives, and it just wasn't a fit for mine. No one's fault or blame, just different paths in life, different ages and stages. Food for thought.

Speaking of food for thought...moose! August 1st was the opening of moose hunting season. And having been here one year now, I am excited to legally be able to catch my first moose. And just to clarify if you are not familiar. Here in Alaska, it is traditional and culturally appropriate to say you are going to 'catch' a moose or 'caught' a moose. You don't say I shot a moose. I learned last year at this time from my friends in the village that catching a moose is being respectful to nature and the land, and what it provides for you. The moose provides food and at one time clothing, to each of the families. It is a term of respect for the Yupik culture and people here honor it very seriously. So I am very excited to have the opportunity to catch my first moose this fall. In talking with several of the guys I have gotten to know and become friends with, the majority have felt that it is better to wait until September to start hunting the moose. The warmer weather of August can allow the meat to get warm too quickly, creating a greater possibility for the meat to go bad. In addition, there are more bugs around which also presents a problem in the fur and with potential meat. From what I am told, the Mountain Village area, as well as up and down the Yukon River Delta, offer a plethora of opportunities to find and catch moose, and September will be a prime time to do so. I can't wait.

Another big event that I was able to experience for the first time was the start and height of the berry picking season. Everyone gets very excited and really looks forward to the berries turning and being ready for harvesting. It's funny to hear people talk. The eager berry pickers are out as soon as they can be, yet are very hesitant to give away their secret spots, or where they are finding their first picks. After a while they are everywhere and talk turns to the excitement of boat trips to far off tundra, where in some places you can't even begin to make a dent in the berries, because there are so many. Some villagers will travel as far as an hour-to-two-hours or more to some of their favorite places. Kotlik is one of the favorites to travel to for many villagers. Some refer to the trips as going to Berry Camp, where they pick berries and camp for one or several nights. The first berries of the season are the Cloud Berries, also referred to as Salmon Berries. They start out as a deep-orange and turn to a light orange and become very soft. They have a sweet, unique taste that I can't even compare to anything else. Next in line are Blueberries and Raspberries, and finally the Black Berries as you get further into August. Most people here refer to their picking in terms of gallons, so the more gallons you have, you've done some 'serious' berry picking. And keep in mind how small most of these berries are and you can begin to appreciate the sheer commitment they have to gathering. Most of the berries are used to make the traditional akutuq, Eskimo Ice-Cream and it is delicious, and like nothing you've ever tasted. You won't find a family gathering, event or celebration here that doesn't have a large bowl of akutaq included with the meal.

I did spend a lot of time on my own this summer too. I really liked that flexibility to go where I wanted to go, when I wanted to go and do whatever moved me at that moment. If someone called to ask me to go do something, I never said no. I dropped everything and took advantage of those experiences and opportunities. Age and stage again. I know not everyone can say they can do that, so not for one second do I take it for granted that I had those opportunities. That freedom could be taken away in a heartbeat and I will always be grateful. What were my 'alone time' activities? They became some of my favorite things to do. Hopping on my four-wheeler and going anywhere; up the mountain, down to the docks, miles along the tundra, over to the gravel pits, or simply driving around town seeing who was out and about. I also found a comfortable patio chair and a small stool to put my feet up on and spent hours and hours sitting on my tiny porch, with a Pepsi in hand, watching people zoom by on the dirt road, super-highway that hugs the side of my house facing the mountain. I'd also retreat on many nights to what we call The Tracks. It's a stretch of trees and open field under water until summer, along the Yukon River and the edge of Mountain. That's where I made a little campfire spot for anyone to enjoy. Although I never saw signs of anyone else taking advantage of it, I spent many nights enjoying the warmth of the fire, peanuts and Pepsi and the soft, rolling waters of the river. It's also the spot where I met up with my first and hopefully last bear and now my trips are not complete without the addition of my gun and a can of bear spray. Knock on wood, no more bears. (The campfire site I told about is in the picture above.)

I talked about it a little before, but I can't help but think how lucky I got in this first year with friendships and getting to know people in the village. Even though I enjoyed my alone time, I still looked forward to the friendships I had made. The unique part of it though is that I not only made friendships with other guys, but I made many quality and genuine friendships with both the women and families in the village. People you could stop and talk to on your four-wheeler for fifteen minutes or more, just sharing stories and laughs about life. Or going down to the docks or shore to manuq and striking up a conversation, that before you know it lasts for a couple hours. Families took me in for meals, took me camping on the coast of the Bering Sea, for boat rides, fishing at one of the village's, favorite hot spots - Clearwater, I was a part of three family funerals, drift netting for King Salmon, invited to bingo, and was offered help in so many ways. I am very grateful for all of that. I didn't know what to expect for the summer, sadly knowing I wouldn't be able to get back to Wisconsin to see my son and daughter, my grandkids and my other family and friends. But...I wouldn't have changed a thing. I couldn't have asked for a better first summer (and year) in Mountain.   

That's all for now...stay tuned!

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 13 - Forging Friendships & New Firsts

The Alaskan Adventure - Volume 13 - Forging Friendships and New Firsts

I kick myself sometimes, because I wish that I would post more frequently when there are so many things going on here and they might be more interesting happening in real time. It's okay though. The events are all still very exciting and they're a great addition to the adventure. As the title expresses, the last seven weeks have allowed me a lot of growth in the village with both friendships and opportunities to do things for the first time.

Probably the most exciting addition was my purchase of a four-wheeler. Almost considered a must if you are going to live in the village permanently. It not only allows you the convenience of getting around a lot easier, but the opportunities to travel outside the village and around the mountain are endless. There were many places around the village that I had never ventured to on foot. Before the ice broke on the river, I had the good fortune to go up river on the rock-trails that ran along the beach of the river and see some of the fish camps that are frequented during the summer and fishing seasons. Then there were the trails up the mountain, trails around the village, trails along the old airport and the list goes on. One convenience I really appreciated was being able to go to the local store and have the four-wheeler to carry my box of food back home. It was usually a decent walk up the steady incline of the road back to my apartment.

I have to say that the best part of the new, four-wheeler was what it did for allowing me to get to know the villagers better. I mentioned that I was forging friendships and it has truly been a great opportunity to really get to know people on a much more personal level. The best part is that it's not just with a couple of guys. It's with not only a lot of guys, but with women, with couples and with whole families. Imagine driving around your neighborhood and when you see someone, you pull up next to them roll down your window (no windows on the Honda's, lol), and you strike up a conversation. It could be at the AC Store, down by any one of the three docks (no docks, open gravel to the water), by the spring, at the dump, by the post office, on the road to the new airport, or even in the middle of the road. Today a friend pulled up on the road, we shut off our four-wheelers and after a short while, another friend pulled up and we were three Hondas deep talking about hunting and catching moose in the fall. Sometimes my friends with kids will pull up with their family of four and we'll 'chew the fat' (talk) for a good fifteen, twenty minutes. And you wouldn't believe it, but the kids no matter how big or small, will sit as quietly or patiently as ever, or are active, enjoyable participants in the conversations. It's amazing and so comforting at the same time. I was brought up in a family where my mom and dad would walk to the surrounding yards of our neighbors and strike up conversations for an hour at a time. I don't believe I could have been put in a better place to carry on that tradition. And I have to say that even if you're not stopping to visit, people will always smile or give a wave to say a respectful hello. I love it. There are good people everywhere and Mountain has its own share of people with issues and struggles. But I just pause and shrug, not knowing what to say sometimes about how grateful I am to be where I am and have the people around me that I do.

May was sad, because it brought a bittersweet and official end to the already unusual, school year we had. I've shared with a lot of people that what made the year exceptionally sad was that I was fortunate enough to have one of the very best group of kids in my twenty-one years of teaching and was having possibly one of the best school years I have ever had. Each school year always allowed the opportunity to have a nice goodbye with a fun end-of-the-year celebration. The fear of the Corona Virus took that away from us this year. A final phone call, or in some cases just a text, is all that I got with each student before saying goodby for the summer. Hard to put into words. The upside of the coming summer was that I was going to be able to see all my students around the village throughout the summer. Not something I ever had the opportunity to have happen during my teaching back in Wisconsin. It's a pretty neat feeling when you're anywhere around the village and you hear kids from every grade shouting out or giving a friendly, "Hi Mr. Matt, or Hey Mr. Matt."

May also allowed for some of those firsts that I mentioned. Since I arrived in August, each new event becomes an exciting first for me. As the weather began to warm the river, the talk of the ice breaking was a big deal in the village. You could first see the ice melting from the shore to about twenty feet to the gargantuan sheet of ice that covered the entire Yukon to the other shore. Everyone was talking about when it would break. Each day we watched, we checked, we watched. Then...one day...it happened. Giant sheets of ice cracked, spun, crunched, 'chingled' and began floating down the river. People talked about huge chunks of the past that would pile up along the shores, creating giant banks of ice that sometimes tore into the shore and landscape. They had not seen that in some time and this year was explained as a moderate year for the ice moving. There were some big buildups near the shore where you would see what would appear as an ice jam, but overall the steady flow of massive sheets of ice made their way down the river. The crunching and crinkling sounds of the ice were like something I had never heard before. The flow was amazing to watch. We never saw it this year, but legends of the past told of people seeing moose and bear floating on sheets of ice where they mistakenly forgot to jump off before the ice broke free. We weren't lucky enough to see that this year.

The breaking of the ice also led way to the river rising. Day to day we saw the shoreline shrink, boat owners dragging boats to higher land to avoid ice damage, waters swallowing the shore that we had just recently traveled up and down river on with our four-wheelers, and our village spring being submerged for an indefinite period of time. Over the course of a few weeks the amount of ice coming from up river was slowly disappearing and bringing the next stage of the spring thaw, logging. Villagers readied their boats and before you knew it, they were out on the water searching out the best logs to be gathered and cut for winter heating. Thousands and thousand of logs made their way down the river. Some were not shy about braving the remaining ice sheets to get some of the first picks from spring logs passing Mountain. And let's be clear here. When I say logs, I'm not talking large sticks. I'm talking about former trees, monstrous trees that had fallen in the river, now mostly limbless, but huge. I was fortunate to be able to go logging a couple of times and it is a fun, but grueling experience. Chainsaws right there on the ice or in the water, roping and dragging the logs behind your boat to the shore, tying the log to a four-wheeler and dragging it back to the respective house for further cutting and splitting. It's a pretty cool process.

The warm weather at the end of May saw the village start to come alive a lot more. While the Covid-19 threat was still in the back of our minds, people here too were itching to get out and live the life they were used to. Things like the thawing river, bird hunting, gathering wild eggs and logging. With the beginning of June I saw the preparation for fishing coming to life. People began preparing their boats, nets and fish camps for the upcoming season. Mountain Village is a big subsistence and commercial fishing village and they are very passionate about what they love to do. And they are very good at it. Early June will bring the movement of the King Salmon up river and a pinnacle time for setting nets and starting the season. As people start catching fish, a common sight will be large quantities of dried fish hanging from outdoor drying racks. Some of the best and most delicious salmon in the world is right in our front yard and nearby Mountain. Soon you will also see people gearing up for berry picking, which is also a staple and popular activity in and around the tundra of Mountain Village. You don't get the amazing and delicious aqutak (Eskimo Ice-Cream) without the delicious salmon, blue and blackberries on the tundra.

Well, June is in full-swing and like I said earlier there are so many things going on it is hard to keep up. June has brought the running of the King Salmon and Chum up river and subsistence fisher-people have been busy checking their 'set' nets and 'drift' nets for hopes of a good catch. I say fisher-people, because there are many talented women as well who have continued long-standing traditions for fishing that have been in their families for years. I had to the opportunity to be a part of harvesting the fish from all aspects (minus drift netting, which I hope to do as the summer subsistence and commercial fishing continues). I can only use the word amazing again as I describe what families do together to work their fish camps. Each camp comes with its own unique share of old stories, traditions and laughter. 50-100 fish are meticulously caught, gutted, fillet, hung on wood beams to dry, taken and dried in smokehouses and packed for winter in a variety of ways. Obviously, much of the fish is prepared for upcoming meals, but each family has its own special traditions of how they like to prepare their fish. And I am also truly impressed by the incredible generosity which people in the village have for taking care of others and making sure everyone - family, friend and neighbor have an opportunity to benefit from each catch. I will also tell you that it is some of the most delicious fish (salmon) that you have 'ever' tasted in your life. I swear that some of the fresh caught King Salmon taste like they've been draped in butter. The oil in their meat absolutely melts in your mouth. Mmmm.

June also brought several deaths to the village and regardless of whether it was old age and a long-life, lived or the tragedy of a young death, it hits deep and resonates throughout the village. We tragically lost a twenty-year-old, young man, another young woman and two very sweet and well-respected, women elders. It was important to me to be a part of those so that I was able to help and honor those who passed, in any way that I could. This village is a part of me now and I want to show my respect in any way that I can. In one passing I was part of a procession for the young man who was one of our honored (VPO) Village Police Officers. I just saw him the day before he passed and it just rips at your heart to realize how quickly life can be taken away. A second funeral I was able to be a part of was for an honored and respected elder in the village. Her life, kindness and how she touched the lives of others in the village was more far reaching than you could imagine. I was very honored to be asked by the family to drive her casket to the church for her service and up the mountain to the cemetery. I was very humbled and grateful to be asked.

Now, I have to tell you that what I have learned and experienced with the funerals in Mountain Village was like nothing I have ever experienced back in Wisconsin in my entire life. Back in Wisconsin I've seen families come together and I've seen how lives were touched by those who had passed. Yet, it is the entire process that is like nothing I have ever seen or heard of before I arrived here, and I have to say it is an absolutely beautiful and touching process. When the news first spreads of a villager's passing, the news is quick and everyone is good to share the heartfelt sadness. As soon as it is possible, the body is brought to the home of the deceased and is peacefully placed in an area of open viewing. The body remains in the home for the community to visit for three or more days depending on the family's wishes. This means the home is open for anyone who wishes to come and pay their respects to the deceased and their family. Tears are shed, stories are shared, laughter is offered when able, food is brought and shared by both visitors and the family, and the community shares in the sorrow and heartfelt respect. One of the local churches also brings their choir each night and sings to the family and guests. It's really nice. The day of the funeral the body is either brought to a local church or the family will have a final celebration of life and goodbyes. From each place, the body is then taken to the cemetery of the family's choice. Some of those who have passed have been taken by boat to cemeteries either up or down river. Many of the villagers who have passed are taken up the mountain to the cemetery that overlooks the village and river. It is at that time that members of the family will say their final goodbyes, place the casket and will fill in the grave themselves. I don't even know what words to use to say how sad, how touching and beautiful the process is as family and friends bury their loved ones and create some of the most beautiful grave sites you have ever seen. I was again very humbled and grateful to be a part of one of the burials and I will remember it for the rest of my life to have been a special part of it.

June also gave me the opportunity to return to the coast and Bering Sea. Last August was a great trip, but this adventure allowed me my first experience to see and watch the catch of Beluga Whales. Depending upon their age the whales are grey, white or a combination of both. We drove for miles in a boat waiting patiently for a whale to show itself. To this day I still cannot believe the incredible skill my friends have acquired over time to simply be able to spot them. This is not out of a page of Moby Dick or whale watching, where the whales will breach the surface and leap out of the water. There is a keen eye needed to watch the waves, as a wave will suddenly reverse its course and reveal a Beluga moving through the water. The driver speeds quickly to the direction of the wave anomaly and the harpooner at the bow of the boat readies his or her harpoon. The driver watches the harpooner and the harpooner carefully watches for the 'footprints', the circular pattern made on the surface from each kick of its tail fin. Good teamwork will allow for the harpoon to be thrown slightly in front of the path of the whale. If the throw is accurate, the whale is speared, the rope unravels to the buoy attached to the end of the spear and the whale is followed. When pursued the whale is shot and brought into the boat. That is what 'would' have happened if we had made it through all of the steps. I was a spotter and obviously not a very good one. My guides had the eyes of an eagle and I couldn't tell a wave from a whale if my life depended upon it. But it was really exciting and I did get to see two whales in the water. Another surprising fact is that we were doing this in 2-4 feet of water, and after 1:00 am in the morning. It never really got dark and we could see clear as the day. The good news for my guides and for the experience was that their cousin had unfortunately caught a small Beluga in his fishing net and was kind enough to offer it to them. So I did get to see one up close and watched another interesting process, seeing the whale cut for food. In a nutshell, they also caught ducks and made several attempts at catching swans and geese as well. The camping was a blast and the Bearing Sea sunsets were breathtaking. The river left no short supply of beautiful smells, sounds and sites as well.

We just had our Summer Solstice, the longest day of the year. As I mentioned for the Bering Sea trip, it never really gets dark here. Blackout curtains work wonders, but I have to tell you, the constant light really does something to your mindset. Some nights I'll leave my four-wheeler out and go for a late night ride at 12:00 or 1:00 in the morning. It feels like the day and the weather is so pleasant. You would be surprised how many people are out late enjoying the warm summer nights. I do have to make sure I wear my sunglasses and keep my mouth shut on my rides as the bugs are out in full force. As much as I like my protein, I don't want to be getting it from a mouthful of bugs. I'm sure it's just a joke that they are protein, but you get the picture. I don't know why, but I had the bright idea to do moose calls on a ride not too long ago and had two bugs fly into my mouth at the same time. Needless to say, not a good time to call moose and not a bright idea. Funny at the time, but won't do that again.

There is so much more I could write about, but I'm going to stop there and save some for the end of July. I will say it again, this is one of the best decisions I have ever made in my life. This is home. It feels right, and the adventure will continue.

Until next time...stay tuned!